Woodworking Joints - Which Ones Should You Use?

!9#: Woodworking Joints - Which Ones Should You Use?

There are many popular woodworking joints. A Woodworking joint's strength varies, and some are better than others.  Which ones are best for your projects?

1. Butt Joint

The Butt Joint joins two pieces of wood by merely butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest to make. It is the weakest joint, and you must use some type of reinforcement. You have an end grain to long grain gluing surface. The resulting joint is naturally weak. It relies on glue to hold it together; however, glue does not have much lateral strength. You can break this joint with your bare hands.

2. Biscuit Joint

A biscuit joint is nothing more than a reinforced Butt joint. The biscuit is an oval-shaped piece and is made of dried and compressed wood, such as beech. You install it in matching mortises in both pieces of the joint. Most people use a biscuit joiner to make the mortises. You design the biscuit joint to allow flexibility in glue-up. However, you must locate the mortise the correct distance from the face of the joint in both pieces. Since the biscuit is thin, you can move the alignment around. This is the very reason that I do NOT like this joint. It is not in perfect alignment. In addition, you waste your money on the Biscuit Joiner and a lot of time cutting the mortises in each piece of stock. Why bother?

3. Bridle Joint

 A bridle joint is similar to a mortise and tenon. You cut a tenon on the end of one piece and a full width mortise into the other piece to accept it. This is the distinguishing feature of this joint You have only three gluing surfaces.

The corner bridle joint joins two pieces at their ends, forming a corner. You use this joint to house a rail in uprights, such as legs. It provides good strength in compression and is fairly resistant to racking. You must use a mechanical fastener or pin.

4. Dado (joinery)

 A dado is a slot cut into the surface of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a dado has three sides. You cut a dado perpendicular to the grain. It is different from a groove, which you cut parallel to the grain. A through dado passes all the way through the surface and its ends are open. A stopped dado has one or both of the ends stop before meeting the edge of the surface. You use dadoes to attach shelves to a bookcase carcass. You rabbet the shelves to fit the dado, which makes the rabbet and dado joint.

5. Dovetail Joint 

The dovetail joint, or simply dovetail, is a strong woodworking joint, and is great for tensile strength (resistance from pulling apart). The dovetail joint is used to connect the sides of a drawer to the front. A series of pins cut to extend from the end of one board interlock with a series of tails cut into the end of another board. The pins and tails have a trapezoidal shape. Once glued, the joint is permanent, and requires no mechanical fasteners. Some people use a dovetailed dado, because of the tensile strength.

6. Finger joint

 A finger joint or box joint is used to join two pieces of wood at right angles to each other. It is similar to a dovetail joint except that the pins are square and not angled. The joint relies on glue to hold together. It does not have the mechanical strength of a dovetail.

7. Lap joint

 A half lap joint is made by removing material from each piece so that the resulting joint is the thickness of the thickest piece. Generally, the pieces are of the same thickness. You remove half the thickness of each. This joint is good for making workshop storage items.

8. Mortise and Tenon

One of the strongest woodworking joints is the mortise and tenon joint. This joint is simple and strong. Woodworkers have used it for many years. Normally you use it to join two pieces of wood at 90-degrees. A mortise is a cavity cut into a piece of wood to receive a tenon. A tenon is a projection on the end of a piece of wood to insert into a mortise. You insert one end of a piece into a hole in the other piece. A quality mortise and tenon joint gives perfect registration of the two pieces. This is important when building heirloom pieces.

9. Pocket-Hole Joinery

The Pocket-Hole Joint is nothing more than a Butt joint with Pocket Hole Screws. The pocket holes require two drilling operations. The first is to counterbore the pocket hole itself, which takes the screw head. The second step is to drill a pilot hole whose centerline is the same as the pocket hole. Most people use a pocket-hole jig, such as the Kreg Jig(TM). This jig allows you to drill pocket holes at the correct angle and to the correct depth. Glue should be used to strengthen the joint. Of course, the Kreg Jig(TM) costs from up to 0. To me, that is a lot of money when you can make the mortise & tenon jigs for a fraction of that price. Moreover, the mortise and tenon joint is much stronger.

10. Rabbet

 A rabbet is a recess cut into the edge of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a rabbet is two-sided and open to the end of the surface. An example of the use of a rabbet is in the back edge of a cabinet. The rabbet allows the back to fit flush with the sides. Another example is the insertion of a glass pane by using a rabbet around the edge of the frame.

11. Tongue and Groove

Tongue and groove is made by cutting a slot (groove) along one edge. The other piece has a tongue cut on the mating edge. As a result, two or more pieces fit together closely. You can use it to make wide tabletops out of solid wood. Some other uses are in wood flooring, parquetry, paneling, etc.

Woodworking Joints Torture Test - Wood Magazine Nov 2006

Are pocket screws stronger than dowels? Which of the woodworking joints give the most strength? Do screws add any strength to a joint?

For the "Wood Joint Torture Test" in WOOD Magazine issue #173, they created and then destroyed more than 100 joints.

Wood Magazine Shear test:

Mortise & Tenon Joint took 1,005 lbs/force, which is over two to three times the force to break compared to other joints.

Wood Magazine Pull Apart test

The breaking force for a Biscuit miter joint is 220 lbs/force; Dado 559 lbs/force and screws did not help.

For a Mortise & Tenon Joint, the wood failed but not the joint. It took 4,733 lbs/force nearly 2½ tons to pull apart.

Clearly, this test shows that the Mortise & Tenon joint is superior to other joints.

For more information on Woodworking Joints, including pictures and the video by WOOD Magazine showing the results of these tests, please visit http://www.provenwoodworking.com/woodworking-joints.html

Copyright 2009 - Jim McCleary of provenwoodworking.com. All Rights Reserved Worldwide. Reprint Rights: You may reprint this article as long as you leave all of the links active, do not edit the article in any way, and give author name credit.

Woodworking Joints - Which Ones Should You Use?

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Porter-Cable 560 QUIKJIG Pocket-Hole Joinery System

!9#: Porter-Cable 560 QUIKJIG Pocket-Hole Joinery System

Brand : Porter-Cable | Rate : | Price : $184.99
Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 08:24:07 | Usually ships in 24 hours

The Porter-Cable 560 QUIKJIG Pocket Hole Jig Kit uses a built-in drill bit collar set up that does not need to be changed for different material thicknesses. The Porter Cable 560 has an automatic depth control system allowing for easy set up for different materials and uses a removable dust port that can be hooked up to a Porter Cable Dust Extractor or standard vacuum.

• Automatic depth control system allows for easy set-up for different material thicknesses
• Variable-spaced bushings allow a variety of positions for the pocket holes
• Self-adjusting clamp adjusts automatically to material thickness
• Repeatable clamp makes multiple pieces quick and easy
• Screw-length gauge recommends the appropriate screw length for material thickness

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!9# Build a Garage Workbench Video

Mark Donovan of HomeAdditionPlus.com shows how to build a garage workbench

Build a Garage Workbench Video

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Kreg SML-F125 - 5000 1-1/4-Inch Pocket Screws, #7 Fine, Washer Head, 5000-Pack

!9# Kreg SML-F125 - 5000 1-1/4-Inch Pocket Screws, #7 Fine, Washer Head, 5000-Pack

Brand : Kreg
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Post Date : Nov 10, 2011 02:28:41
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This 1-1/4" fine thread, #2 square drive washer head screw works well in 3/4" thick, hardwood material such as oak, maple, hickory, cherry and walnut. The washer head of this screw is our most popular head style as the wide bearing surface of the head will not overdrive in the bottom of the pocket. This is especially important in softer material such as plywoods and composites. The screw also features a type 17 auger tip that self-taps its' own hole, eliminating the need to predrill in even the hardest materials. Kreg screws also have larger diameter steel shanks than many other screws on the market today making for an impressively strong screw that is almost impossible to break. Our screws have a bronze colored finish and a dry-lubricant coating that eases driving torque and provides greater rust resistance. For maximum rust resistance, look to our Sun-Seal coated weather resistant screws.

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Kreg SML-C250S5-250 305 Stainless Steel Pocket Hole Screws - 2 1/2-Inch, #10 Coarse, Washer Head, 250 count

!9#Kreg SML-C250S5-250 305 Stainless Steel Pocket Hole Screws - 2 1/2-Inch, #10 Coarse, Washer Head, 250 count

Brand : Kreg
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Kreg Hidden Fastener Deck Jig from Woodcraft

!9# Kreg Hidden Fastener Deck Jig from Woodcraft

Allen Lyle, of Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford, demonstrates how the Kreg Deck Jig, available from Woodcraft, can be used to easily install hidden screws on wood decks.

Kreg Hidden Fastener Deck Jig from Woodcraft

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Kreg K4MS Jig Master System

!9# Kreg K4MS Jig Master System

Rate : | Price : $139.00 | Post Date : Oct 25, 2011 06:48:11
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Featuring a removable drill guide for use with benchtop and portable bases, the Kreg Jig Master System is the ultimate pocket-hole jig, and a great choice for any woodworking enthusiast. For precision and accuracy, it offers 1/8-inch incremental settings for materials 1/2-inch to 1-1/2-inch thick and patented three drill guide fixed spacing on the drill guide. A dust collection shroud means no more woodchips, and the clamping recess allows you to use many different styles of clamps to secure your jig to the workbench. For peace of mind, the hardened steel drill guides are backed by a lifetime warranty.

Jig Master System At a Glance: Removable drill guide for use with benchtop and portable bases 1/8-inch incremental settings for materials from 1/2-inch to 1-1/2-inch thick Rear-mounted clamp design--rigidity and strength to keep workpiece in place Comes with portable base, SkillBuilder DVD, carrying case, and more Hardened steel guides with lifetime warranty

Sturdy benchtop jig utilizing the benchtop base for high-speed production Pocket-Holes.

Contractor-grade jig for work on the road with the portable base.

Three Tools in One
Thanks to its innovative Removable Drill Guide, the Kreg Jig Master System can be many tools at once. First, a sturdy benchtop jig utilizing the benchtop base for high-speed production pocket-holes, second as a contractor-grade jig for work on the road through use of the portable base, and finally as a high quality repair jig with the addition of spacer blocks to the bottom of the drill guide.

Serious Woodworking Tool with High-Quality Features
Between its solid clamp, large clamping recess, dust-collection attachment, material support stop, removable three-hole drill guide, and seemingly endless adjustability, this jig has it all. If you're serious about owning the highest quality tools, look no further than the Kreg Jig Master System.

Sturdy Toggle-Clamp
The Kreg Jig Master System features the same reliable rear-mounted clamp design featured on the very first Kreg jig. It's a proven design offering incredible rigidity and uncompromising workpiece hold-strength. Adjustments are as easy as releasing the lock-nut, and rotating to the correct setting.

In addition, the large clamping recess makes it easy to secure the jig to the workbench using Kreg's multi-purpose face clamps or any common bar clamp or c-clamp.

Removable 3-hole drill guide.

Three-Hole Drill Guide with Steel Core
The patented three-hole drill guide lets you make perfectly placed pocket-holes in a wide variety of material widths and thicknesses. Every Kreg drill guide features a hardened steel core that carries a full lifetime guarantee. The core shrouds the bit and supports the workpiece through 100% of the drill-stroke, resulting in minimal bit deflection, reduced tear-out, and a clean pluggable pocket-hole.

Durable Construction and Optimized Drilling Angle
The blue body of the every Kreg jig is made from a heavy-duty glass-reinforced nylon, a unique composite material that offers the resiliency and flexibility you need without sacrificing strength and durability. To increase driving efficiency and minimize the overall size of the pocket-hole to less than 1-1/2 inches, this system also features an optimized drilling angle.

Wood-Chip Relief Hole Extends Bit Life
The Kreg Jig Master System includes one wood-chip relief hole for every drill guide hole, designed to keep the drill bit clear of excess wood chips, minimize drill torque, increase the longevity of your drill bits, and allow you to complete a perfect pocket-hole in one plunge instead of three.

What's in the Box
Kreg Jig Master System, face clamp, portable base, drill guide spacer, material support stop, dust collection attachment, 3/8-inch stepped drill bit, six-inch square driver, three-inch square driver, starter screw set, starter plug set, quick-start guide, SkillBuilder DVD, and carrying case.

• Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes
• Kreg DDS 3-Inch No.2 Square Driver Bit and 6-Inch No.2 Square Driver Bit for Kreg Pocket Hole Systems
• Kreg KHC-RAC Right Angle Clamp
• Kreg KHC-90DCC 90-degree Corner Clamp
• Kreg SML-C125 1-1/4-Inch No. 2 Coarse Screw (1000-Pack)

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As Seen on TV Kreg Jig Review

!9# As Seen on TV Kreg Jig Review

For the woodworker, nothing is easier than pocket hole joinery using the Kreg Jig K3 System. Since the debut of this system in 1990, the Kreg jig has been the choice for affordable and easy to use pocket hole joinery.

What is pocket hole joinery? The simplest process, all it involves is drilling a clearance hole that is angled and a counterbore in wood. Using another piece of wood, the first one is attached to the second one with a screw. The bottom (the pocket hole) of the counterbore is back far enough from the edge to which it is being joined to allow room for the screw head. The clearance hole sets the screw at an angle so it can hold the wood without popping through.

When it comes to the best pocket holes you will do no better than the Kreg K3 System. The jig is a versatile tool which includes these features:

* You no longer have to reach around to clamp, which is awkward. The clamp is on the front side which is much easier to reach.

* When you need the pocket holes in a specific place, the drill bit guide has three fixed holes for guiding and placing them for narrow, wide and widest.

* The dust collection shroud is a new feature that eliminates the wood chips falling all over the workbench and will make the drill bit last longer.

With added height adjustment, the K3 allows screws to enter material from ½ inch to 1 ½ inches thick. The innovative material support stop will place the pocket holes in alignment on all the pieces you are working on so you have the best pocket hole drilling available.

The system includes a portable base, drill guide block, material support stop, 3/8 inch step drill bit, Allen wrench, dust collection shroud, premium face clamp, depth collar, screws, a carrying case and instructions.

The most uncomplicated way of joining materials perfectly and with the accuracy needed so that the parts of the joint line up precisely are accomplished by the Kreg Jig K3 System. Instead of a set-up that you do not understand or having to measure, and dry fit joint the whole thing can be taken care of in just a few minutes. This is as simple as using a drill.

The Kreg Jig K3 System has a portable case for taking along wherever you need to work or for storing when it is not in use. With more features than any other hole tool sold today, the system is preferred by those working in cabinet making, picture frames, decks, stairs, windows and door jambs and attaching leg rails to perfection. The sky is the limit when it comes to the uses for this jig.

When it comes to strength, independent testing that has been done shows a remarkable difference between using this jig and the old way of using a mortise and tenon joint. The pocket screw joint when subjected to a shear load failed at 707 pounds and the mortise and tenon joint failed at 453 pounds. For a 35% stronger pocket screw joint, the Kreg Jig K3 System clearly came out the winner.

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Building Kitchen Cabinets - A Tool Checklist For DIY'ers

!9# Building Kitchen Cabinets - A Tool Checklist For DIY'ers

So you want to build your own kitchen cabinets? You certainly can do it, but make sure you have all the right equipment. This is a quick overview of the tools you will need.

Tools You Will Need

Circular Saw - Kitchen cabinet casework starts with cutting plywood and panel parts, and you'll need a good circular saw with a plywood cutting blade to accomplish this task. An edge guide will help you make your cuts straight and square. Cutting plywood and panel parts on a table saw is not a good idea, unless you have a table saw set-up with a large outfeed table.

Table Saw - For ripping board stock to make cabinet face frames and cabinet door frames, you'll need an accurate table saw. Many good bench top table saws will be suitable for this process.

Miter Saw - For cutting board stock to length, a good miter saw is required. Cutting board stock to length includes cutting cabinet face frames, cabinet door frames, and all moldings.

Random Orbital Sander - For finishing all casework and board stock, you'll need a random orbital sander with a variety of sandpaper grits.

Cordless Drill - Kitchen cabinets can be assembled using screws. A good 18 volt cordless drill with a backup battery will make your cabinet assembly go smoothly. Please get an extra battery so that you won't lose time waiting for batteries to recharge.

Kreg Jig - The kreg jig offers a system to assemble cabinet face frames with pocket screws. All major cabinet companies build their cabinet face frames with pocket screws - so should you. There is no need to build mortise and tenon joints on your face frames.

Nail Gun - Cabinet installation requires a nail gun for attaching all moldings on your kitchen cabinets.

Some Tools You May Need

Planer - If you decide to mill your own board stock, you'll want to have a planer. This makes sense if you decide to use board stock not commonly available at the home centers - like cherry and alder.

Sprayer - For finishing cabinet doors and face frames, an hvlp sprayer can make staining and finishing a faster process.

Miscellaneous Jigs - If you're using European hinges on your cabinets (cup hole hinges), you'll want a good hinge hole jig. Also, attaching drawer slides inside cabinet casework goes a bit more smoothly with the help of a drawer guide jig.

Building your own kitchen cabinets is a big project. It's a project that most DIY'ers can tackle, but you'll want to have all the right tools to make the project easy to manage and complete. Please consider these tools before you get started.

Building Kitchen Cabinets - A Tool Checklist For DIY'ers

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Kreg Pocket-Hole #8 Screw x 1-1/4" Coarse (5,000)

!9# Kreg Pocket-Hole #8 Screw x 1-1/4" Coarse (5,000)

Brand : Kreg
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Post Date : Oct 10, 2011 05:45:10
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Designed for pocket-hole systems, Kreg pocket-hole screws increase the strength of a pocket-hole joint. Cut-thread pattern prevents splitting. Coarse thread is for any combination of softwoods, plywood, and composites, and fine is for hardwoods.

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Cabinet Face Frame Construction - Choosing the Best Method

!9# Cabinet Face Frame Construction - Choosing the Best Method

There are two basic types of cabinet, "frameless" cabinets, which is essentially a box made of plywood or chipboard, and "face frame" cabinets, which have an additional wooden frame on the front edge. When building cabinets frame the face, the face of the frame assembly of the parts together is probably the most difficult task in the whole process. So what's the best way for cabinet face frames of carpentry? There is no shortage of options: screw pocket mortise and tenon joinery, dowelsbiscuits and all have their champions. In the end, the choice depends a lot on your situation and objectives.

For most professional carpenters, the decision to adopt one or the other method with a compelling interest in lockers outside the door, just as quickly and efficiently as possible. For the hobbyist who has a lot of freedom to experiment, is a story a little 'different. If not your life to shave a few seconds of this process or that, then hang upchoice really depends on the conditions the cabinets will have to face, your skill level, the equipment you have available, the amount of time you want to give your cabinetry projects, and what you think it takes to join a face frame "right".

Mortise and Tenon Joints

Some cabinetmakers just seem to prefer time-tested joinery methods, and may go to the length of cutting a bona fide mortise and tenon for every face frame joint. There's little doubt that this method is the slowest, but there's also no question that it produces the strongest joint. Many would argue that structurally, a mortise and tenon joint surpasses overkill in this application. But if you're dedicated to making cabinets in the highest possible craft, then the knowledge that you've used the most resilient joint possible may be worth the extra effort.

Of course there are many ways to make a mortise and tenon joint, some being much faster than others. If you're committed to idea of building cabinets suitable for centuries and centuries of use, but prefer to move along as quickly as possible, here are a couple of options to consider.

Quicker, Easier "Loose" Tenon Joints

Arguably every bit as strong as a traditional mortise and tenon joint, a "loose tenon" joint is typically much easier to make. The "loose" in loose tenon joinery simply means that instead of cutting the end of one joint member into the shape of a tenon, a mortise is cut into both parts and then the two are joined by a separate piece of stock. The process is easier because the primary task is simply making two identical mortises, rather than the exacting procedure of cutting a precisely matched mortise and tenon in two separate - often set up-intensive - steps. The loose tenon stock itself can either be purchased ready-made as part of a joinery system, or can be easily made with common woodworking tools.

The affordable BeadLOCK Joinery System is a longtime favorite among weekend woodworkers and produces loose tenon joints easily and fairly quickly. The BeadLOCK system employs a uniquely shaped mortise made up of overlapping drill holes and a matching "ribbed" tenon stock, which is available ready-to-use, or can be made using tenon stock router bits and a router table. The BeadLOCK Jig consists of a multi-holed drill guide and a mechanism for positioning it on the stock so that the BeadLOCK mortise can be reliably and repeatably executed using an ordinary hand drill. Recently redesigned, the BeadLOCK Jig now comes in a Basic and Pro version, both of which can be upgraded with accessory kits that allow greater versatility in mortise/tenon size. A BeadLOCK joint can be made in a fraction of the time that it takes to cut a traditional joint, and many devotees argue that the unique, interlocking shape of the parts actually produces a stronger bond.

The Festool Domino Joinery System also produces a loose tenon joint, and makes the process as slick as it's ever likely to get. The Domino looks similar to a biscuit joiner, and produces joints about as fast, but the similarity between the two tools ends there. Instead of cutting a thin slit into the stock, the Domino uses an oscillating carbide cutter to make a mortise wide enough to house one of the system's specially designed "domino" shaped hardwood tenons. The result is a rock solid joint in record time. Of course all of that speed, strength and precision doesn't come free; the Domino's price tag isn't exactly for the faint of heart. But if you plan on being in the cabinetmaking game for a while, like to speed along as quickly as possible, and prefer a joinery method that will leave no questions about the integrity of your face frame joints, the system is impossible to beat.

While the Domino is definitely not to be confused with a biscuit joiner, that doesn't mean that a biscuit joiner can't be used to join face frames. In fact, the Porter Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner comes standard with a second, smaller cutter designed specifically for the task of cutting biscuit slots in 1-1/2" face frame stock. In terms of strength, a biscuit joint is no match for any type of mortise and tenon joint - loose or otherwise. But many cabinetmakers find that fact to be simply beside the point. When you get right down to it, a face frame joint really doesn't have to stand up to a whole lot of stress. Once it's attached to the cabinet box, it simply has to remain stuck together. And we'd guess the majority of cabinetmakers would deem a biscuit joint more than equal to the task.

Faster Still - Pocket Screw Joints

Still more cabinetmakers swear by pocket hole joinery for joining face frames. Pocket hole joinery is used widely in the cabinetmaking industry, and by all accounts is the clear winner when it comes to getting through the face frame assembly process fast. A pocket hole joint doesn't require clamping, but instead comes complete with its very own permanently installed clamp - i.e., the screw. That means that once its assembled, a face frame joined with pocket screws is ready for the next stage in the process, and can be joined to the cabinet box without further ado. Fast, strong and self-contained, pocket hole joinery appears almost tailor-made for face frame joinery, where joint stress is low, and a visible fastener on one side of the finished product is not a problem.

For the hobbyist, the name Kreg has become synonymous with affordable, easy to master pocket hole joinery systems. Over the years, Kreg has continued to improve its groundbreaking jig, and now offers a number of kits. Starting at under and ranging up to around 0 for the K3 Master System, Kreg jigs are available for virtually every woodworking budget. And later, when you turn pro, the semi-automatic Kreg Foreman will bring you up to industry production speed.

More Options...

Still other cabinetmakers prefer to dowel their face frame joints. Nothing wrong with that: Dowel joints have been around for hundreds of years, are more than strong enough for a face frame and - provided you already own a hand drill - require only a modest investment in a doweling jig and few dowels.

A Side Benefit - Learning New Skills

None of the joinery methods mentioned here are limited to face frame assembly, of course. All can be used in a wide variety of woodworking situations. In other words, buying the equipment necessary to try one or more on a specific project involves very little risk - if it turns not to be the preferred method in one situation, you will, without a doubt, find a use for your newly acquired joinery technique somewhere else.

Cabinet Face Frame Construction - Choosing the Best Method

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Pocket hole jig - What is it?

!9# Pocket hole jig - What is it?

If you are a carpenter passionate, then you probably have your share of cabinets and other types of projects. It can be very satisfying to enjoy the wood, and perhaps also developed the piece itself. Then, when you get the satisfaction with something useful at home or in the workshop and you might also enjoy the benefit of friends and family your work and congratulates you.

So what is the biggest drawback to all this fun? For me, it must beMake joints, good strong joints can exact a joy to see, but to make a pain in the neck. Now I can do a lot of good work of my mind when I think it looks right, then usually it is. What can I say, is a gift.

But when it comes to drawing up the dimensions for all these compounds, which is another story. I use a tape measure or rule, but simply do not mention the math, it gives me the heebee Jeebies. I know all about measuring twice, definitely cut out for him, but I can breaksweat when it comes to doing the calculations for the joints of a series of framed doors.

And do not forget the joy stick to your joints and stretching, I would normally have had at least one additional arm. No matter if you are able to cut joints and dowel joints or Tennon, are difficult to obtain.

This is where the pocket hole jig comes to the rescue, an easy task, is nothing less than incredibly powerful. You do not have to make difficult calculations to obtain the wood jointsDo you need an octopus precise point of an assistant or a dozen clamps to hold the joint while the glue dries, you do not need glue!

All you need is your piece of wood cut to size, and can handle the wee hole jig pocket, special drills that come with it and the proper screws. That is, it's that simple. You just put your piece of wood in the model, the special tip to fit into your drill and away you go, the hole is drill a pilot holefor screw and a bigger hole so that tightening the screw, simply unscrew the pieces of wood, requires no glue, but you get a tight joint strong and you can hide the bolt from view by installing plug wooden blind holes.

The time saved with a surprise gig blind hole in a long time to do more projects. If you think you need one of these great devices for your workshop then check out my review of the Jig K3 KregeMaster system.

Pocket hole jig - What is it?

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Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System

!9# Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System

Brand : Kreg | Rate : | Price : $97.02
Post Date : Sep 24, 2011 03:42:12 | Usually ships in 3-4 business days

The Kreg Jig (K4) is the perfect choice for do-it-yourselfers and anyone new to Kreg Joinery. Whether you're building your first set of garage storage shelves or making simple repairs around the house, the Kreg Jig can help you finish the job in less time, and with far less effort than you ever thought possible. Its simple design gives you the confidence to start the project, and with joints as easy as -InchDrill. Drive. Done!-Inch, you'll actually want to finish it.

• 3-Hole drill guide for pocket holes
• Large clamping recess to secure your jig
• Removable drill guide guarantees you'll have the right tool
• Drill guide block doubles as a repair tool
• Requires no glue, no complicated math, and no small army of clamps

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Trim Carpentry: arriving at a right angle

!9# Trim Carpentry: arriving at a right angle

www.kregtool.com Gary Striegler is a second generation homebuilder with over 25 years of practical experience. Known throughout the country for its use of proven techniques and details beautiful house, is a strong supporter of everything that Gary get the job done faster, without helping the strength and longevity of his work. Gary is the host of detailed Trim Carpentry Krege DVD (from which these brief clips have been taken) to develop skills and strategies throughAccelerate work and improve the quality of the final product with the construction with the pocket screw joinery. Pocket holes that you can do is build better projects faster and with less skill really. -Gary Striegler

Trim Carpentry: arriving at a right angle

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Kreg DB110 Foreman 3/4-Horsepower Electric Semi-Automatic Pocket Hole Machine

!9# Kreg DB110 Foreman 3/4-Horsepower Electric Semi-Automatic Pocket Hole Machine

Brand : Kreg | Rate : | Price : $795.00
Post Date : Sep 18, 2011 07:58:36 | Usually ships in 24 hours

When your production needs have outpaced the manual Kreg Jigs, look for the added speed and convenience of the FOREMAN Pocket Hole Machine. The semi-automatic FOREMAN features an electric drill motor and an adjustable clamping cylinder. To operate, simply position your material to be drilled and pull the lever forward. This motion activates the 3/4 hp drill motor and throws the clamping cylinder. Finish the drill stroke by continuing to pull on the lever and then return the lever to the home position.

• Fast, rugged machine for repetitive drilling
• Electric motor drills holes in 1-second cycle
• Clamp holds material 1/2- to 1-1/2-inches thick
• 19-by-13-5/8-by-22-5/8-inches at 35-pounds
• Tabletop height of 6-3/4-inches

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